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Electrical problem 1 year 10 months ago #40843

Hi Ro,
I have similar issues with my car - everything is replaced and it still suffered an engine power loss.
Please see my recent posts under "1500 engine power loss"

I would be interested if you found any definitive answers in your searches, I trawled most posts out of interest over the winter and noted as you did, very few .... Ahh found it it was the whatsit that was broken now all is happy!

When I get mine back on the road (after 20years in my garage) I will write my experiences up.

Kind regards Alan

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Electrical problem 1 year 9 months ago #40871

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Hello Alan

sorry for the delay but time is short these days!! I cannot 100% be certain that i have the magic bullet however, after replacing the (non existent) exhaust manifold to collector flange gasket before my break, I managed to have the car idle for at least 45 mins (with several stop starts of the cooling fan, engine cover up, warm day) before I purposely shut down in contrast to the previous 20mins on the dot self-shut down (engine cover up, cool day) before the installation of the gasket. The engine bay and the carb seem much cooler without the large escape of exhaust gasses into the engine bay. Thank goodness for the hatch in the boot to give some access to the flange. Only one stub broke off and a small Stilssons plus wd40 (applied over a few days) helped removal better than the various stud extractors i used.

I have many more things to check yet (see also last months Practical Classics mag as to how to determine if it is electrical or fuel vaporisation) and hope to report back later with my findings.

Any thoughts on your side?


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Last edit: by Ro. Reason: more info added.

Electrical problem 1 year 9 months ago #40876

Well, mine turned out to be a tiny 2mm flake of rubber? in the carb float chamber.
I guess it was being sucked up when I "gave it the beans". This would explain why it would idle but not drive.
I subsequently found an on-line explanation from a google search "Ted Perkins Weber" turns out he did an excellent write up with illustrations on how the weber carb works. check out this link: , for an extract from his concluding paragraph and part copied below.

" The clogging usually occurs on the primary air jet, (#5 in the photo & #11 in the drawing immediately above) The primary emulsion tube gets filled with junk, and air & fuel cannot mix and pass to the venturi. This usually happens with before any clogging of the low-speed/idle circuit. So, the car idles OK and runs fine at low speeds, but stumbles and dies on acceleration. It's on acceleration that the primary circuit becomes active. Engine speed increases, the throttle lets more air in, but the primary circuit is not allowing the proper amount of fuel to pass. So now, there is not enough fuel to burn the air, and the motor stumbles and stalls. Delightful in city driving. "

This of course describes my fault to a T.
Now while I have only driven it 10miles since and on one of our recent hot days, I hope and presume that I have got to the root of the issue at last. As I said everything was replaced, new and I could not understand what was left to suspect. Of course I had cleaned the carb to within an inch of it's life so cannot explain how that little flake of rubber - if that is what it is - came to still be inside the carb. but it was!!

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Electrical problem 1 year 8 months ago #40991

My car seems to have this problem behind it (I do hope!).
My smoking gun was that little 2mm x 1mm flake of I think rubber from an old fuel hose that I found within the carb float chamber.
While I had cleaned and replaced everything to within an inch of their life it seems that there was a nook and cranny within the idle mixture fuel circuit that eluded my exhaustive soaking with carb cleaner and air jetting. Of course old rubber would be resistant to chemicals. One lives and learns.

Ignition coil temperature: My brand new Luminition ignition system coil does run quite hot.
The standard coil will average around 24watts electrical heating input running, stick that in an engine bay
and it may heat up a little. The engine bay in the X1/9 is a very warm place. Of course with the engine stopped (and contact breakers closed) that electrical power goes up a lot to around 65 watts. Try it and feel your really hot coil after just a few minutes.

I will try and thermocouple the coil to log temperatures some time and write it up here.
One large (not Robert Bosch) German OEM quotes their ignition coils having a Temperature range -40 °C to +180 °C
suggesting they are designed to run hot and within the engine bay temperatures so I guess that pointing the finger at a hot coil may just be missing the real guilty component.
Sorry to go on and on but I hope its better to understand the fault rather than just replace everything in sight.

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Electrical problem 1 year 8 months ago #40998

I had a similar issue where I felt like I was hitting a rev limiter ended up fitting a luminition constant energy electronic ignition system and now she goes right up past a glorious 7500 with no problems
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